Why It Works
- Seasoning the batter with turmeric, cumin, chile powder, and black pepper enhances the earthy, nutty flavors of besan, Indian chickpea flour.
- Ground turmeric gives the batter its signature sunny yellow color.
I have a sweet tooth, and at breakfast, I tend to prefer muffins and French toast over scrambled eggs and avocado toast. The only savory dish I make an exception for is chilla, a savory Indian chickpea pancake that holds a special place in my heart. Made from besan, a finely milled chickpea flour, chilla are thin and crepe-like with frizzled edges, and have a rich nuttiness and plenty of warmth from cumin, turmeric, and chile powder.
Chillas were a part of the leisurely Saturday morning breakfasts I enjoyed with my parents growing up. The hectic rush before school on weekdays meant breakfast was usually something quick, such as toast, cereal, or, if the situation was especially dire, a Pop-Tart hastily eaten in the car. Weekends were for hot, savory Indian breakfasts: My mom would make pohé (flattened rice), upma (a semolina porridge), or chille, and serve them with achaar (Indian pickles) and a green chutney. My family would linger at the table with cups of chai, with ‘90s Bollywood music softly playing in the background.
Today, chillas are my go-to when I’m scrounging for a vegan breakfast option, whether it’s because I’m trying to reduce my animal product consumption or eggs are exorbitantly expensive. It’s also what I make when there is barely anything in my pantry or fridge: All you need is chickpea flour, water, and a few other staples. Like an omelette or scramble, chillas are protein-rich, versatile, and an excellent vehicle for whatever fresh herbs and vegetables you have on hand. (It’s even a sunny yellow, thanks to a smidge of turmeric.)
While I keep mine classic with cilantro, red onion, and tomato, which is what’s typically used to prepare chilla, you can think of the batter as a blank canvas. Produce that has long lingered in your fridge—such as a lonely carrot, semi-dessicated radish, or bag of herbs or leafy greens—can be chopped into pea-size pieces, then folded into the batter. Grated paneer would also make a delicious addition. Whatever you do, don’t skip the ginger and cumin: Chickpea flour can sometimes have a very mild bitterness that is nicely balanced by these two warm spices.
A note on the batter: The absorbency of chickpea flour can vary widely from brand to brand. You’re looking for the consistency of a loose pancake or crêpe batter that’s pourable and spreadable. Start with a half cup of water, and if it’s too thick, add more, one tablespoon at a time, until it’s thin enough to pour. You can whip up the batter the night before, but you’ll have to give it a good stir before cooking, as the besan will separate and settle to the bottom.
However you choose to make it, chilla is a comforting, nourishing dish that’s endlessly riffable. It may traditionally be a breakfast dish, but don’t let that stop you from enjoying it for lunch or dinner.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
This High-Protein Breakfast Practically Makes Itself—and Is Ready in Minutes
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1 cup chickpea flour (3 3/4 ounces; 108 g), such as besan
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cumin seed
1/4 teaspoon chile powder, such as Guntar Sannam
1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
1/2 cup water (120 ml), plus more as needed
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/2 medium red onion (about 4 ounces; 113 g), finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 medium plum tomato (about 4 ounces; 113 g), finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 ml) neutral oil, such as vegetable, plus more as needed
To Serve:
Green chutney, homemade or store-bought
Achaar
Ketchup
In a medium bowl, whisk chickpea flour, turmeric, cumin, chile powder, salt, and black pepper to combine. Add water, whisking until batter is smooth and pourable. (A few small lumps are OK. Batter should resemble a loose pancake or crêpe batter; if batter is too thick, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until batter is the right consistency.)
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
Using a flexible spatula, fold in ginger, onion, tomato, and cilantro to combine.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
In an 8-inch cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high until just shimmering. Using a 1/4 cup measuring cup, scoop batter onto skillet and, using a flexible spatula, spread batter into a circle 5- to 6-inches in diameter. Cook until edges are crispy and bottom is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip chilla and cook until bottoms are lightly golden and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer a large plate and repeat with remaining batter.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
Serve hot with green chutney, aachar, and/or ketchup. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper as needed.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
Special Equipment
Whisk; 8-inch cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet; 1/4 cup measuring cup; flexible spatula
Make-Ahead and Storage
The batter can be made up to 1 day in advance. Mix well before using.
Chilla can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Chilla can be frozen in an airtight container or zip-top bag for up to 1 month. To freeze, arrange chilla in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. When frozen, place into a resealable container or zip-top bag. Reheat in the microwave.
