A master butcher reveals the single smokehouse that sets the gold standard for ham.
Smoked ham is one of those foods that can instantly elevate a holiday table or Sunday dinner—but finding the perfect one isn’t always easy. Many places serve smoked ham, but when it comes to choosing a truly exceptional one, nobody knows better than butchers. To uncover the No. 1 spot for the best smoked hams, Eat This, Not That! turned to Thomas Odermatt, Founder of Roli Roti Food Trucks and Butcher’s Bone Broth, who is a third-generation Swiss butcher and chef. He shares his top place for smoked ham and tips for choosing a good one.
Smoked Ham is a Tradition
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Sharing a meal creates a sense of community and makes an occasion with food not only a delicious way to enjoy an event, but also a way to create memories. For Chef Thomas, smoked ham was a tradition on New Year’s or Easter.”My father made his hams in the traditional Black Forest style — cured for at least three months and smoked over pine wood until the meat turned a deep mahogany-golden brown,” he explains. ” As a child, I looked forward to that holiday meal all year long, especially when it was served with homemade egg spaetzle.”
His family’s butcher shop became known for its Black Forest hams — both the smoked, dry-cured version and a slightly smoked hot-slide bone-in ham.
Chef Thomas says, “We were lucky to work with some of the best hogs, including Berkshire from our local farmers.”
How the Craft of Preparing a Smoked Ham was Carried Over to Today
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As a butcher, Chef Thomas understands the art of creating a beautiful smoked ham and shares how certain aspects of the craft have been passed down.
“In my adopted country, holiday hams took on a different identity — the spiral-cut classics, the old-school Virginia hams aged for over 200 days,” says Chef Thomas. “Many of these traditions were carried over by butchers and restaurateurs who brought their craft from the old country.”
Edwards Virginia Smokehouse
Edwards Virginia Smokehouse
Since 1924, family-owned Edwards Virginia Smokehouse has been delivering legendary cured ham to customers, but in 2016, a fire destroyed the processing plant and in 2021, the longtime family business was sold. The new owners have vowed to keep the signature style and taste alive and while the plant has not been rebuilt, you can still order their smoked hams online.
“On a trip to Virginia, a butcher friend insisted I stop by Sam Edwards in Surry–this was before the tragic fire that destroyed his historic smokehouse beyond repair,” Chef Thomas shares. “I still remember tasting that ham — easily one of the best I’ve ever had. Hickory-smoked, aged more than 200 days, sweet, salty, with a depth of flavor that stayed with you.”
He continues, “One slice on a homemade biscuit and you could taste the pride, the patience, and the history in every bite. While the smoke house Edward Virginia ham is gone, the tradition and taste lives on.”
Most Restaurants are Disappointing for Smoked Ham
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It’s been years since Chef Thomas visited the plant, but has forgotten the flavor of the ham that he’s still “chasing.”
He says, “Some hams come close; others are miles off. And if you’re looking for a proper smoked ham for dinner in a restaurant, you’ll likely be disappointed.”He explains, “In America, ham has mostly become a breakfast or brunch item. A classic spiral-cut dinner ham with proper sides is surprisingly hard to find.”
Seek Out Small Local Chains for Good Smoked Ham
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While Chef Thomas isn’t impressed with bigger chains when it comes to smoked ham, he does think there are places where you can find a worthy ham meal.
“If you want a good smoked ham, look for a breakfast ham — it’s where the craft still lives – small local chains likely will always have hams and egg breakfast offerings,” he says.
Heather Newgen
Heather Newgen has two decades of experience reporting and writing about health, fitness, entertainment and travel. Heather currently freelances for several publications. Read more about Heather
