Why It Works
- Searing the corn cobs and then simmering them in stock infuses it with robust corn flavor.
- White miso adds a subtle sweetness and savoriness while also thickening the soup.
- A crunchy corn kernel garnish delivers crouton-like contrast and an extra hit of corn flavor.
I’m a fan of corny things—pudding, bread, jokes. My favorite snack growing up was a spoonful of corn straight from the can, and during the holidays, I loved to drink my family’s atole de elote, a warm, comforting blend of fresh corn and milk. The season I look forward to most each year is corn season. When I visit my parents in Turlock, CA, I stop at roadside stalls by cornfields and pack my trunk with cobs. This recipe is one of my favorite ways to use fresh, in-season corn and is a perfect dish for the shoulder season leading into early fall. It screams corn flavor, fresh and sweet, all wrapped up in a warm, comforting bowl of soup—no heavy spices or potent ingredients to distract from the corn’s mellow, milky character.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
For the corniest soup, you’ll want to extract the “corn milk”—that starchy, sweet liquid that clings to the cob after the kernels are cut away. To do this, run the back of your knife firmly down each cob, scraping and pressing to release every last drop of creamy juice. This starch-rich milk adds body and amplifies the flavor of the soup in a way stock alone never could.
I take further advantage of the cobs by searing them in a skillet until browned in spots, then simmering them in stock, much like chicken bones for a broth. This infuses the soup with an even deeper, toastier layer of the corn’s essence.
I love using miso in this soup. The combination makes sense as miso has a sweetness and gentle salty funk that amplifies the mellow sweetness of corn without overshadowing it. To bring that harmony of flavors home, I melt white miso—the most delicate variety, with an especially appropriate sweet-savory flavor—straight into the sautéed corn as it cooks. The miso doesn’t just season the soup; it also thickens it ever so slightly, giving the purée a velvety, rich finish that complements the cream.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Instead of the usual croutons or crackers you might expect on a bowl of soup, I like to crown this one with crispy corn kernels, or chanchas/canchitas as they’re called in Spanish. You’ll often find them labeled as Incan or Peruvian corn in many grocery stores or online. There also exists a ready-to-crisp variety that can be briefly fried in oil at home, puffing to a crunchy bite in just a couple of minutes. They have a texture that’s somewhere between popcorn and those half-popped kernels at the bottom of a microwave bag—pleasantly crunchy but not in a tooth-breaking way. They bring a welcome contrast to the creamy base while adding yet another dose of corn flavor. A few sprigs of cilantro and a squeeze of lime brighten it all up, making the dish as satisfying and complete as any soup-and-cracker combo, but with way more personality.
Summer Isn’t Over Until You Cook Corn Like This
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2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable oil
6 ears of corn kernels cut off from cobs, cobs and kernels reserved separately
2 quarts (2 L) homemade chicken or vegetable stock or low-sodium store-bought chicken or vegetable broth
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 medium white onion (4 ounces; 113 g), diced
3 medium cloves (15 g) garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (30 ml) white miso
1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream
Kosher salt
For Serving:
1 cup crunchy corn kernels (also known as “canchas” or “canchitas,” see note)
Cilantro leaves
Lime wedges (optional)
In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add bare cobs and cook, flipping occasionally, until brown in some spots, about 5 minutes. Add chicken or vegetable stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to medium heat to maintain a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve 2 cups for soup.
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While the corn stock cooks, in a large skillet, melt butter over medium heat until bubbling. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
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Add corn kernels and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add miso and stir until it melts into corn and is thoroughly combined, about 2 minutes.
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Working in batches, transfer corn mixture to a blender jar. Starting at low speed and increasing to high, blend with heavy cream and 2 cups of infused stock. (Use caution when puréeing hot ingredients and do not overfill the blender.) The consistency should be thick, smooth, and creamy. If needed, thin with additional stock to the desired consistency. Season to taste with salt.
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Serve topped with crunchy corn kernels, cilantro, and lime.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Special Equipment
Blender, large stock pot or Dutch oven, large skillet
Notes
Crunchy corn kernels are called canches or canchitas in Spanish, and can be found in the chip or nut aisle of most Latin grocers. They’re typically labeled as Peruvian or Incan corn snacks. They’re also sold ready-to-crisp in oil; follow package directions if using ready-to-crisp. Corn Nuts are an acceptable substitute, but they are denser than the other options listed.
Make-Ahead and Storage
This recipe makes more corn-infused stock than needed for the soup. Freeze extra corn stock in an airtight container for up to 3 months. You can use it in braises or other soups.
The soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Simmer gently on the stovetop to rewarm. Avoid boiling as this may separate the cream in the soup.
