Why It Works
- A ratio of one part pumpkin to about two-and-a-quarter parts dairy makes for a silky custard that’s not overly thick.
- Baking the custards in a water bath ensures even, gentle cooking and reduces the risk of overcooking.
- Using a blowtorch to caramelize the raw sugar topping results in an evenly caramelized crust that shatters easily.
For the past few weeks, I’ve been busy planning my Thanksgiving dinner menu. I prefer to keep the main course simple and classic with roast turkey, cornbread stuffing, sweet potatoes, and green bean casserole, but for dessert, I like to include a few surprises. This year, I’ll be skipping the pumpkin pie (gasp!), but not to worry: My guests will still get their fix in the form of a smooth and creamy pumpkin crème brûlée.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
While crème brûlée has a reputation for being tricky to pull off, it’s actually one of the simplest and most impressive desserts you can make once you nail the basics. This holiday-themed version is just as creamy as the original, and it tastes like an extra-silky pumpkin pie—no crust required. In fact, this pumpkin crème brûlée is faster and easier to throw together than a pie. Plus: It has that irresistible lid of crunchy caramelized sugar, which adds the crispy texture of the crust we’re not making.
The Best Pumpkin-to-Dairy Ratio
While developing this recipe, I tested several ratios of pumpkin to dairy, and honestly, I loved them all. More pumpkin made for a thicker texture—essentially a very smooth, crustless pumpkin pie—while versions with more milk and cream leaned closer to classic crème brûlée with a pumpkin spice twist. I ultimately settled on a ratio of one part pumpkin purée to a little over two-and-a-quarter parts dairy by weight. This produced a silky custard with just enough pumpkin to add both body and flavor, without veering into pumpkin pie territory.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
To season the crème brûlées, I use restrained amounts of cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger, which makes for a mellower pumpkin spice flavor that tastes familiar without going full-blown holiday candle. I also add a dash of vanilla extract and a tiny pinch of black pepper for a subtle hint of heat.
Tempering the Eggs
Like most iterations of crème brûlée, this custard is set with egg yolks, which are rich in fat, resulting in a silky-smooth consistency. Rather than simply whisking all the ingredients—the dairy, eggs, sugar, salt, and spices—together at once in the saucepan, I temper the egg yolks to keep them from curdling. Tempering may sound intimidating, but it’s very straightforward: Once the cream, milk, and pumpkin purée begin to steam, you’ll whisk the egg yolks, sugar, spices, and a dash of vanilla extract in a bowl, then slowly drizzle in the hot dairy mixture, whisking constantly, until all of the liquid has been added. This dilutes the egg proteins, making it more difficult for them to bond and preventing your custard from becoming sweet scrambled eggs.
Don’t Skip the Water Bath
The key to velvety crème brûlée is baking it gently in a water bath, which ensures even cooking and minimizes the risk of overcooking the custard. Even if your oven is set to 325°F (160°C), the water bath’s temperature won’t exceed the boiling point (212°F/100°C). This helps keep the heat around the ramekins consistent and prevents the edges from setting before the centers do.
This recipe makes six 4-ounce portions; I like to use 4-inch ramekins, which provide ample surface area for the caramelized topping but still fit neatly inside a roasting dish. You want to fill the roasting dish with enough just-boiled water to reach about two-thirds of the way up the ramekins, then bake them until the custards are mostly set but still have a tiny bit of wobble left in the centers. To check for doneness, I use an instant-read thermometer. The custard is perfectly set once the centers reach about 175°F (80°C). I prefer to pull them when they hit 173°F (78°C), since they’ll continue cooking for a minute or two after they’re removed from the oven. But if you choose to pull the crème brûlées at 175°F, that’s fine, too—they’ll just be slightly firmer.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
If you don’t have ramekins, you can also make one large crème brûlée in an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. While baking time will vary depending on the exact dish you use, it takes about 30 minutes, and you’ll know the custard is done when the edges are set and a 2- to 3-inch area in the center appears slightly wobbly. Again, use an instant-read thermometer for best results.
A Blow Torch is Best
When developing her crème brûlée recipe, Serious Eats senior editor Genevieve found that using a blow torch was by far the best method for caramelizing the sugar on top of the custards. A torch delivers intense, direct heat with precision and control. A hot broiler can work in a pinch, but it takes significantly longer, and you risk curdling the custards in the oven. If you must use the broiler, make sure it’s well preheated, then position the custards on the top rack, close to the heating element.
In either case, you’re looking for the sugar to melt and turn amber. I like my caramel extra dark, so I continue applying heat until the caramelized sugar turns deep brown in a few spots.
Serious Eats / Melati Citrawireja
The topping will start to soften and lose its crunch over time, so it’s best to torch the custards just before serving. Luckily, pulling out a blowtorch at the holiday dessert table is a surefire way to impress your guests. And there’s something deeply satisfying about tapping your spoon against the crackly sugar lid. I’m willing to bet this dessert becomes an annual tradition in my house—I made four batches in October while developing this recipe, and I already can’t wait to make it again.
