Why It Works
- Pressing the tops with a fork creates shallow ridges that prevent the cookies from doming in the oven and provide a textured surface for the walnuts to cling to once baked.
- Dunking the cookies while they’re still hot into cooled syrup allows them to absorb just the right amount of flavor in a short soak without turning soggy or falling apart.
When I think of Athens during the holidays, my mind goes straight to the white lights draped across the city’s main streets on the way to Syntagma Square. At the center stands a glowing karavaki, a boat wrapped in twinkling bulbs—one of Greece’s oldest Christmas decorations and a nod to the country’s seafaring roots. And alongside the lights, decorations, and chilly evenings comes one thing I look forward to every year: melomakarona, the orange-and-walnut–scented cookies that reign among Greek Christmas cookies.
These cookies are iconic in Greece, and they’re shockingly easy to make at home. The dough comes together in one bowl (using only a spoon—no need to lug out the big stand mixer), the ingredients are simple, and the technique is forgiving. The result is a taste of Christmastime in Athens, no matter where you live.
A Brief History of a Melomakarona
Melomakarona traces its lineage to makaria, a simple, symbolic food tied to ancient funeral rituals and the goddess Makaria. Over time, that somber offering evolved into something joyful when meli (honey) was added to the soaking syrup for the baked dough, and the modern melomakarono was born.
Today, although strongly associated with Christmas, melomakarona can be found in Greek bakeries all year long—stacked high on trays, dusted generously with chopped walnuts, and somehow sweet without ever feeling heavy.
Why They’re So Easy—and So Good
Part of the cookie’s lightness comes from its naturally dairy and egg-free base of oil, orange juice, and flour. The dough has a soft, almost playdough-like texture that mixes quickly and shapes easily. Once baked, the warm cookies take a dip in cooled syrup, a hallmark technique in many Greek desserts that ensures deep flavor without sogginess. They also keep beautifully for days, making them an ideal make-ahead holiday treat.
Because melomakarona rely on only a handful of ingredients, quality matters. Freshly squeezed orange juice and zest are essential for bright flavor. As for the oil, I prefer a zesty, robust olive oil that complements the orange’s floral notes. Avoid neutral, high-heat oils like canola or vegetable oil, which can flatten the cookies’ flavor.
Shaping, Syruping, and the Walnut Finish
Shaping melomakarona is simple: Roll the dough into small rustic ovals and press the top lightly with a fork—similar to peanut butter cookies, but in one direction rather than crosshatched. This step flattens the cookie slightly and creates texture so the walnuts can cling later. Skip the indentations and your cookies may dome in the oven, leaving those walnuts nowhere to land.
After baking, the hot cookies take a quick dunk in cooled syrup. 10 to 15 seconds per cookie is all they need. Left in the syrup for too long, they risk oversaturating, turning soft, and falling apart. I cool them on a parchment-lined baking sheet rather than a wire rack since the flat surface helps catch and absorb every bit of syrup that would otherwise drip off.
Many traditional versions enrich the syrup with a splash of cognac or brandy, though as with the dough itself, its inclusion isn’t required. I’ve made plenty of batches where I realized in a panic that I didn’t have a drop of brandy in the house. I finally learned that the cookies are just as delicious without it. If you have cognac or brandy on hand, go ahead and add a tablespoon to the syrup; skipping it won’t compromise the flavor.
For the walnut topping, I pulse the nuts until very fine—larger pieces won’t adhere. I sometimes add toasted or untoasted sesame seeds as well, which isn’t traditional but adds a lovely hint of nuttiness.
Melomakarona delivers big flavor with minimal effort—simple ingredients, a bowl and spoon, and a little dunk in syrup. They’re a crowd-pleaser at any holiday gathering and just as delightful kept on your counter for snacking all week long.
