The world of cooked sugar is a magical realm. The temperature to which sugar is heated, along with the ingredients it’s combined with, can produce wildly different textures and flavors. Sugar crystals transform into many beloved confections through caramelization, the breakdown of sugars as they heat, changing both their color and flavor.
Caramel, butterscotch, and toffee are all made using the same cooking technique and are often mistaken for one another. These sweets demonstrate how subtle variations—such as the addition of milk, cream, or butter, and the precise temperature at which cooking is stopped—can produce different flavors and textures.
To better understand the differences among caramel, butterscotch, and toffee, I spoke with Nathan Myhrvold, the author of Modernist Cuisine, and Nik Sharma, a Serious Eats contributor, cookbook author, and editor in residence at America’s Test Kitchen. Here’s what I learned about the differences, plus the best uses for each of these sticky sweets.
Caramel
Ingredient: Granulated sugar
Cooking Temperature: Recipes range from about 250 to 350°F (121 to 175°C), depending on the desired result
Caramel is made by heating granulated sugar (white sugar) until it melts and caramelizes. There are two main techniques: dry caramel and wet caramel. Dry caramel is made by heating sugar on its own, without added liquids, while wet caramel starts with sugar dissolved in water. The temperature you cook it to will determine the final flavor and texture: The longer the cook time the tk the flavor. Luxurious caramel sauces and soft, chewy candies are created by adding cream and butter at the end of caramelization.
Cooking caramel requires a watchful eye. Even the most experienced chefs have scorched or crystallized a batch. As sugar cooks, its flavors deepen and become more complex— but there’s a fine line between beautifully caramelized and burned. Myhrvold recommends caramelizing sugar in a small pan to reduce the chances of burning, explaining that it can be difficult to heat a large pan evenly, resulting in parts of the sugar cooking too quickly. Making caramel well requires precision: Taking the sugar to just the right amber shade will reward you with rich, nutty, and malty flavors.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Sharma explains that sugar naturally wants to crystallize and will seize any chance to revert to that state during cooking. Adding acid, such as lemon juice or cream of tartar, can help stabilize the mixture by preventing crystallization. If your sugar does crystallize, the good news is it’s just sugar. If a batch goes wrong, toss it out and simply try again.
Caramel is an incredibly versatile ingredient. As Myhrvold notes, how you intend to use it will determine the ingredients you add. Whisking cream into caramel at the end of cooking helps maintain a fluid consistency once cooled, which is ideal for sauces and incorporating into buttercreams. Iconic caramel-based desserts include caramel cake, tarte Tatin, crème caramel, and millionaire’s shortbread.
Getty Images / Magone
Butterscotch
Ingredients: Sugar (typically brown) and butter
Cooking Temperature: Approximately 234 to 265°F (112 to 129°C), depending on desired result
Butterscotch stands apart from other caramelized confections because it typically is made with brown sugar instead of granulated sugar, and butter is always included during the cooking process. As Sharma explains, brown sugar— which is either partially refined sugar that retains some molasses or white sugar coated with molasses—has a higher moisture content, which makes it more difficult to burn, and a natural acidity that makes it less prone to crystallization.
Butterscotch can take many forms, including sauce, candy, or pudding. Butterscotch pudding is a classic preparation made by tempering egg yolks with milk or cream, then incorporating them back into the butterscotch base. Warm butterscotch sauce, with its viscous texture, is a great topping for cakes, ice cream, and other desserts. And of course, there are butterscotch hard candies—instantly recognizable by their canary yellow wrappers— which are made without milk or cream, so they have a less rich flavor than other butterscotch confections.
To make butterscotch, you whisk butter and brown sugar together on the stove until it reaches your desired temperature: Cooking the mixture to the soft ball stage (234 to 240°F/112 to 115°C) will give you a pourable sauce; taking it to the hard ball stage (240 to 265°F/115 to 129°C) will provide you with chewy candies.
Despite the inclusion of “scotch” in its name, there’s no Scotch in butterscotch. Butterscotch reportedly originated in Yorkshire, England, in the mid-19th century. According to an entry in Britannica, “scotching” may refer to the practice of scoring the candy while still warm, making it easier to break into pieces once hardened. Others suggest it’s simply a nod to Scotland.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
Toffee
Ingredients: Sugar (typically brown) and butter
Temperature: Approximately 300 to 335°F (148 to 168°C)
Toffee distinguishes itself from caramel and butterscotch in one key way: It’s typically served as a hard candy. The process begins much like butterscotch—by caramelizing sugar with butter—and then the mixture is taken to the hard crack stage of 300 to 335°F (148 to 168°C). The higher temperature produces a deeper, more complex flavor and gives toffee its signature nuttiness and brittle snap. When toffee is prepared as a sauce, as in sticky toffee pudding, the addition of molasses and/or heavy cream helps prevent it from hardening, resulting in a smooth, pourable consistency.
Toffee candies are often enhanced with chocolate or nuts, which complement its rich flavor. At Dandelion Chocolate in San Francisco, one of the most popular confections is their Cocoa Nib Toffee, coated in delicate, fruity 70% Zorzal Comunitario chocolate from the Dominican Republic. Pastry chef Zach Juliano explains that they make their toffee with a blend of brown and granulated sugars emulsified with local clover butter, which provides the confection with a more complex flavor than one made with just granulated sugar alone. The butter’s fat content amplifies the sugar’s nutty caramelized flavor, while the chocolate’s fruitiness, paired with sea salt and cocoa nibs, helps round out the confection’s sweetness.
Getty Images / jennifoto
Key Takeaways
Caramel, butterscotch, and toffee each showcase the magic of caramelized sugar, and reveal how variations in temperature, timing, and ingredients can lead to dramatically different results.
Caramel is cooked to the highest temperature of the three, and is typically used as a sauce or flavor base for other desserts. It is usually made solely with granulated (white) sugar and develops a deep, rich complexity as it approaches the caramel stage.
Butterscotch is cooked to the lowest temperature and always includes butter. Brown sugar is typically used, giving butterscotch its signature sweetness and nutty flavor. Butterscotch is often made into candies or sauces.
Similar to butterscotch, toffee is made with butter and sugar but cooked to the hard crack stage, which gives it its brittle texture and deeper, more nuanced flavor.
Cooking sugar requires patience and precision. A good candy thermometer, a watchful eye, and all your ingredients lined up before you start are essential. With a solid recipe and a bit of care, success with caramel, butterscotch, and toffee can be yours.
