Why It Works
- Slightly under-stuffing the squid and using toothpicks to close the open ends helps keep the filling inside and prevents the squid from bursting during grilling.
- Greasing both the cooking grate and the squid prevents them from sticking to the grill.
Vietnamese cuisine is full of affection for squid—we grill it fresh, stuff it, and snack on dried squid that’s been charred over open flames. Still, many home cooks hesitate to grill squid, worried it’ll turn rubbery and bland if not cooked properly. But with a few smart techniques, grilled squid becomes not only manageable but deeply delicious. It’s one of my favorite ways to prepare it, especially when I want something smoky and packed with umami.
My mom used to bake stuffed squid in the oven, but I prefer a version that’s charred and fire-kissed, like the mực nhồi thịt nướng I remember from seaside vacations as a kid. In Vietnamese, mực means squid, nhồi thịt is meat-stuffed, and nướng means grilled. It’s simple, rustic, and deeply flavorful. Here’s how to prepare it at home.
Building the Filling for the Stuffed Squid
The stuffing is what makes this dish so unique. To make it, I mix fatty ground pork with squid tentacles, rehydrated wood-ear mushrooms, garlic, shallots, and scallions, seasoning it all with Maggi (a concentrated, dark brown, liquid condiment known for its umami-rich flavor), salt, sugar, and white pepper. I recommend using ground pork with about 20% fat. If you use leaner pork, the filling will turn crumbly and dry after grilling.
The mixture needs at least 30 minutes to marinate, allowing the flavors to blend. I’ve also experimented with herbs: For example, swapping cilantro or dill for the scallions lends a different but equally aromatic twist.
Cleaning and Prepping the Squid
The trickiest part of this recipe is prepping the squid. It’s not hard, just a bit finicky if you’re unfamiliar with it. If you can get cleaned and separated squid bodies and tentacles from your seafood store, go ahead and do that. Otherwise, you’ll need to separate and clean the squid: Start by holding the squid body in one hand and gently pulling out the head and innards with the other. Snip off the tentacles, reserving a portion for your filling, and save the rest for another use, such as fried calamari. Don’t forget to remove the squid’s cartilage—called the “pen”—a clear, plastic-like sliver tucked inside.
Some cooks peel off the dark, spotted skin for a cleaner look, but I like to leave it on; it adds a lovely visual contrast after grilling. Give each squid body a good rinse, checking for any lingering innards, then pat them dry thoroughly. A dry surface helps the stuffing process go more smoothly.
Stuffing Squid Like a Pro
Stuffing the squid takes a little finesse. If you’re starting with large, uniform tubes, it’s easier—but I usually end up with a mix of sizes. My mom taught me a smart hack: Use a funnel and chopstick to push the filling into the tubes. But I’ve found through testing that I prefer the ease of a piping bag fitted with a round tip.
Whatever method you use, don’t overstuff. Squid tightens as it cooks, and if it’s packed too full, it’ll split open and leak on the grill. Leave about a quarter inch of headroom, then close the open end with a toothpick. Once stuffed, arrange the squid on a tray and let them chill uncovered in the fridge for at least four hours or up to 12. This drying step helps them firm up and dry so they’ll develop a better crust on the grill.
Squid Grilling Tips
When it’s time to grill, get your grate blazing hot. Brush both the squid and the grill with oil to help prevent sticking. Depending on the size of the squid, they’ll need two to four minutes per side—just enough time to get lightly charred and opaque. I like to grill them in batches, grouped by size, so I can monitor them more precisely and avoid that dreaded rubbery, overcooked texture.
Serve these beauties hot off the grill with the classic Vietnamese dipping sauce of lime juice, salt, and pepper. A scattering of rau răm (Vietnamese coriander) or cilantro adds a herby kick. The result is everything I love in a grilled dish: tender seafood, savory filling, smoky edges, and a zippy sauce that ties it all together.
A Bold, Smoky Vietnamese Favorite I Grill All Summer Long
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1 1/2 pounds (680 g) squid bodies (about 34 small squid), plus 2 ounces (57 g) squid tentacles, chopped, divided (see notes)
10 ounces (284 g) ground pork, 10 to 20% fat
20 g dried wood ear mushrooms
1 small scallion (8 g) thinly sliced, green part only (about 2 tablespoons)
1 shallot (14 g), finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons)
4 cloves (20 g) garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (30 ml) Maggi Seasoning
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons (6 g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided; for table salt, use half as much by volume
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper, divided
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh lime juice from 1 lime, plus lime wedges for serving
A handful of Vietnamese coriander or cilantro for serving
Neutral oil such as vegetable oil for grilling
To Clean Squid: If using whole, intact squid, clean each squid by gently pulling the head and tentacles from the body section. Discard heads and reserve tentacles for filling. Pull out the long, transparent squid pen (plastic-like inner tube). Remove the insides and rinse well under cold water. Pat squid dry with paper towels. Chop 2 ounces of tentacles into small pieces. Set aside.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
In a small bowl, soak wood-ear mushrooms in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain and squeeze out excess water from mushrooms. Chop mushrooms into small pieces. You should have about 2 tablespoons.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
In a large bowl, combine pork, reserved 2 ounces chopped squid tentacles, rehydrated chopped mushrooms, scallions, shallots, garlic, Maggi seasoning, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper. Mix well with spoon and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes. Transfer pork mixture to piping bag with round piping tip or zipper-lock bag with tip cut 1/2 inch wide.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Working with 1 squid at a time, pipe filling into the squid body leaving about 1/4 inch empty at the top. Thread a wooden toothpick through the open end at top to enclose filling. Repeat with remaining squid. Lay filled squid on a parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate uncovered for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours to air dry.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
For a Charcoal Grill: Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread coals evenly over half of grill grate.
For a Gas Grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine lime juice, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper and mix well.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Clean and oil the grilling grate. Using a pastry brush, brush squid all over with oil. Cook over direct heat, in batches if needed, until charred and skin is no longer opaque, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer grilled squid to a platter. Serve with lime dipping sauce, lime wedges, and Vietnamese coriander or cilantro.
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Special Equipment
Piping bag and round piping tip or gallon-size zipper- lock bag, wooden toothpicks, charcoal or gas grill, charcoal briquettes and chimney starter if using charcoal grill, grilling tongs
Notes
If you are able to have your seafood store clean and separate the squid for you or purchase already cleaned, I recommend doing that.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The pork filling can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 day.
The grilled squid is best enjoyed immediately after grilling, but leftovers can be safely refrigerated for up to 2 days.
