Why It Works
- Blooming the spices in hot ghee enhances their aromas and results in a more flavorful dish.
- Gently simmering the chicken prevents overcooking and keeps it juicy and tender.
- Coating the rice with fat prevents the grains from sticking together, resulting in fluffier rice.
Sharkaseya, also known as Circassian chicken à la Egyptienne, pairs tender poached chicken and rice with a velvety walnut sauce—a combination that might sound more European than Egyptian. In fact, it’s a beloved staple in Egyptian homes and is popular across the Levant, especially in Jordan and Lebanon. Circassians, Muslims from the Northwest Caucasus, introduced Circassian chicken to Egypt when they fled from Russian persecution in the late 19th century. Traditionally, there is no rice in Circassian chicken; the original dish consists of boiled chicken served with a rich paste of crushed walnuts, and is garnished with paprika oil.
In Egypt, the dish has been reimagined with local flair: Dried bay leaves, cinnamon, allspice berries, cloves, black peppercorns, green cardamom, and mastic beads infuse the rice and chicken with a warm complexity. The cooked rice and chicken are layered in a Bundt pan, reheated briefly in the oven, then unmolded and served with a luscious walnut sauce for an elegant presentation. Today, it’s often served at special occasions and festive gatherings, including Ramadan.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
What Makes a Great Sharkaseya
The best sharkaseya I’ve ever had was at the home of my Egyptian-Belgian friend of Turkish descent, Gina. The first time she served it, I was mesmerized by the visual drama of her unmolding the chicken-rice mound onto a platter, letting the sauce flow into its center, then finishing it with toasted walnuts and fresh herbs. It was a dish that was striking in both presentation and comfort.
An epic sharkaseya begins with a fragrant chicken broth, layered with warm spices. Before making the broth, I dry-brine the chicken for at least an hour (though 8 hours is best), which deeply seasons the meat and helps it stay juicy during cooking. Then I sear the chicken in sizzling ghee with whole spices and aromatics until golden and deeply fragrant, then add water and gently simmer until the chicken is tender and the broth is fragrant.
How to Prepare Rice for Sharkaseya
Egyptian short-grain rice (or Calrose rice) is traditionally used in sharkaseya for its natural starchiness, which helps it absorb the flavors of the spices. It also holds its shape well once unmolded. For a lighter texture, basmati rice can be used, though it won’t hold its shape as well and will yield a looser final dish. Sautéing the rice in ghee is key here: Coating the grains in fat helps them stay separate, resulting in grains that stay separate and fluffy during the cooking process. A quick fluff with a fork once the rice is done cooking ensures the perfect texture: tender yet fluffy, with separate, plump grains that hold their shape without being sticky or mushy. When cooked properly, each grain should be soft at the core and slightly glossy on the outside.
Mastic beads come from the mastic tree, and are a common ingredient in Middle Eastern cooking. They have an earthy, piney flavor, and here, they complement the spices and infuse the rice with a pleasant woodsiness.
Getting the Creamy Walnut Sauce Right
The walnut sauce is the soul of sharkaseya. To make it, I pulverize toasted walnuts with shards of lightly toasted bread, then add hot broth to form a luscious, spoonable base. In a separate pan, I bloom minced garlic and coriander in ghee, then stir it into the walnut mixture. A splash of cream rounds the edges, but I tread carefully, as too much can mute the sauce’s nuttiness. I’ve tested other ways to make the sauce, including with milk, paprika, and more cream, but found they tend to overpower the delicacy of the walnuts and dilute their flavor.
The sauce is velvety and aromatic, with a nutty richness from the walnuts that’s softened by a splash of cream. Infused with warm spices and enriched with chicken broth, it delivers layers of comfort—earthy, savory, and faintly sweet all at once.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
How to Assemble
What makes the dish so refined is how it’s presented: Layers of chicken and rice are pressed into a Bundt pan, heated briely, then inverted onto a plate for a showstopping dish that resembles an elegant layer cake.
If you’re serving it right away, invert the mold onto a large serving platter and pour the warm sauce into the groove that forms around the molded rice. Alternatively, you can prepare the mold in advance, refrigerate it, then reheat it in the oven before serving—just keep in mind you may have to bake it for a few more minutes. Unmold the sharkaseya and ladle the fragrant sauce over it, and serve the extra sauce on the side. Whether prepared for a weeknight dinner or a special occasion, sharkaseya is a dish that never fails to impress. And for many Egyptians, including myself, it’s a meal that will always feel comforting and nostalgic.
Serious Eats / Jatin Sharma
