The best salmon is the one that fits your taste, budget, and values. Once you get a handle on the differences—wild vs. farmed, fresh vs. frozen, and more—you can buy and cook salmon like a pro. Below is my detailed guide to understanding and truly enjoying every kind of salmon. No more second-guessing yourself at the fish counter.
Salmon may be the second most popular seafood in the United States—the National Fisheries Institute reports that Americans consumed 3.22 pounds per capita in 2022, only slightly less than the amount of shrimp they enjoyed—but how much do we really know about this beloved dinner staple? While I’ve been eating salmon for years, it wasn’t until my doctor recently suggested I incorporate more fish into my diet that I got truly curious. I already knew salmon was good for me—being high in heart-friendly omega-3 fatty acids is just one of its many nutritional benefits—but I was surprised to discover just how much variety and versatility it offers in the kitchen. Buttery, often pricey king salmon can impress at a dinner party, while milder coho can delight in a stir-fry, and more economical canned pink salmon can be tossed with fresh fettuccine.
I was excited that incorporating more salmon into my cooking repertoire didn’t mean I would be stuck with the same few recipes, but I also had some concerns. Am I only supposed to eat wild salmon? How do I know it’s sustainable? And what about frozen? Like many consumers, I was overwhelmed.
To untangle this and learn more about how to enjoy salmon without the stress, I talked to a few seafood scientists and cookbooks authors: Rachel Hager from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), a handy resource for understanding the different types of salmon and how they’re affected by environmental pressures; Diane Morgan, who has written two books on salmon (Salmon: Everything You Need to Know + 45 Recipes and Salmon: A Cookbook; and Andrew Zimmern and Barton Seaver, authors of The Blue Food Cookbook: Delicious Seafood Recipes for a Sustainable Future. which celebrates food from our oceans and waterways as a means to “create a more sustainable, more delicious future.” Read on for a deep dive into the different types of salmon, as well as what you need to know about seasonality, sustainability, and the pros and cons of wild versus farmed and fresh versus frozen.
Where Salmon Comes From—and Why the Season Matters
Alaska and the Pacific Northwest are perhaps the most well-known sources, but salmon, especially Atlantic salmon, come from a wide range of places. Although once native to the Atlantic Ocean and found in Northeast waterways, all Atlantic salmon available in the US is now farm-raised, as commercial and recreational fishing for Atlantic salmon is prohibited in the US. According to NOAA, the majority of US-farmed Atlantic salmon originates from Maine and Washington. Still, anyone who has shopped for salmon knows that farmed Atlantic salmon also comes from Canada, Chile, Norway, Scotland, and Denmark.
Farmed salmon is available year-round, a significant advantage. Wild salmon, on the other hand, is a very seasonal product, with different types of salmon available fresh throughout the year. This might seem inconvenient, but it allows for variety in the kitchen—and it may just help you get a better deal. Discovering frozen wild sockeye on sale this spring, chef Andrew Zimmern purchased two fillets. Why was that frozen sockeye on sale? Simply because the market knew they were about to be inundated with fresh king (Chinook) salmon, followed by fresh sockeye, so it made sense to put last year’s frozen wild sockeye on special. Keep in mind that different types of wild salmon have their own unique seasons, but there will be fluctuation from year to year, as well as region to region and fishery to fishery.
Wild Versus Farmed Salmon
Sustainable seafood expert and educator Barton Seaver notes that there is considerable tension surrounding seafood, and one of the primary sources of confusion is the debate over wild versus farmed. Many folks insist upon the former, whether because they prefer the taste or they think it’s more sustainable, but others embrace the convenience (and frequent lower price) of the latter. Seaver and Zimmern encourage being open to the idea that both wild and farmed salmon can be both good and not-so-good choices.
“There are bad actors in the wild space and there are bad actors in the aquaculture space,” explains Zimmern, who believes aquaculture is a system that works and has great potential. Number one, because of consumer choice. Number two, because being a good actor in the aquaculture space and doing things the right way actually works better. Is more profitable, and your product is better, which means it’s easier to sell.
“The bad actors in the aquaculture space are, one by one, becoming good actors or going out of business,” adds Zimmern. Why is that? “Number one, because of consumer choice. Number two, because being a good actor in the aquaculture space and doing things the right way actually works better: It’s more profitable, and your product is better, which means it’s easier to sell.”
Rather than limiting yourself to wild or farmed, try thinking about the specific salmon you’re considering purchasing, as well as where and when you’re shopping. For instance, cookbook author Diane Morgan resides in the Pacific Northwest, where she has easy access to wild salmon. She buys fresh wild salmon when it hits the market and vacuum seals it to freeze, allowing her to enjoy it throughout the off-season.
Personal preference is also a factor. Farmed salmon is often considered milder in flavor, which could be good or bad depending on your palate. But it’s also a “vastly diverse category,” insists Seaver, who points to the rich, heavy quality of farmed salmon from Norway, Scotland, or the Faroe Islands. Rather than discounting farmed salmon altogether, try seeking it out from different places.
Frozen Salmon Is Not a Dirty Word—Here’s Why
It’s hard to ignore the allure of freshly caught fish that goes from the sea to the table in minimal time, but thanks to advances in technology, freezing is no longer a “dirty word in the seafood community,” says Zimmern. In fact, freezing enables fisheries to deliver seafood to the market at peak freshness, which is both convenient and cost-effective, while also allowing consumers to enjoy a wider variety.
“One of the things that precipitated a bad reputation for frozen seafood is that it was frozen far away from the point of capture, from the time of capture,” explains Seaver. The term “frozen at sea” gets thrown around a lot, and it’s “fantastic,” says Seaver, but the technology required for near-instantaneous freezing is limited to large-scale fisheries that tend to be at sea for long stretches. With that in mind, what you really need to focus on is “fresh frozen,” meaning that the seafood was correctly frozen and remains at peak freshness to maintain its best flavor and texture.
Freezing wild seafood means fisheries don’t flood the market with their fresh catch, which in turn keeps prices higher for fisheries. It also has practical advantages. Let’s say you do your weekly shop on Sunday. If you’re limited to fresh salmon, that means you have to consume it by about midweek, but perhaps you want to serve it on Friday when you have guests coming over. If you toss frozen fillets in your basket, you can defrost them on Friday afternoon and dazzle your friends with a “fresh frozen” feast. And if you keep frozen as an option, your salmon options expand from what is currently in season to perhaps your personal favorite, one that fits your sustainability requirements, or one that makes the most sense for your recipe.
Salmon and Sustainability
“If the seafood you purchase is caught or farmed in the US, you can feel confident you’re making a sustainable seafood choice,” says NOAA’s Rachel Hager. And if you visit NOAA’s website, you can read about their many projects to protect the long-term health of species populations and ecosystems. Other resources, including the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, are invaluable in determining the latest information on the salmon you’re considering purchasing, but it’s just that—the latest information.
Food systems are ever evolving; you can’t simply check a source once and consider that information set in stone. As a consumer, it’s up to you to continue educating yourself and taking the latest information with you to the fish counter. In addition to NOAA and Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, Zimmern and Seaver point to the Aquaculture Stewardship Council and the Best Aquaculture Practices certification for farmed fish and the Marine Stewardship Council for wild fisheries.
In addition to educating yourself, Zimmern and Seaver encourage you to ask questions. The person behind the fish counter is more likely to know the specifics of the very fish you’re considering. And because of that knowledge, they may even be able to steer you toward an option more in line with your sustainability goals. “If they can’t tell you where it’s from, and enough about it for you to make a decision, then I would suggest you’re shopping in the wrong place,” says Zimmern. The good news, insist Zimmern and Seaver, is that many retailers, including major supermarket chains, recognize consumer demand and are making commitments to sustainable seafood.
The bottom line is that your salmon is caught or farmed in the United States, or carries a certification from the Marine Stewardship Council (wild) or Aquaculture Stewardship Council (farmed), you’re likely making a responsible choice. Beyond that, use NOAA’s FishWatch or the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch website to double-check before you buy—both update regularly as fisheries evolve.
Going Beyond Fillets
Salmon fillets are both common and very easy to cook, but they’re not your only option. If you’re feeding a crowd, consider cooking a side of salmon—that’s one full fillet, and since every fish has two, it’s half of the whole salmon. Cooking a side of salmon on the stovetop would be unwieldy, notes Morgan, so baking or roasting in the oven is far better. If you want to grill a side of salmon and don’t mind investing in another piece of equipment, Morgan recommends a fish basket.
Salmon steaks, which are cut across the fish and horseshoe-shaped with two thinner bits on the ends, are not as widely available as fillets, but they are delicious. Morgan recalls working with a French chef who used kitchen string to secure the thinner ends and turn the steak into a more uniform oval shape for even cooking, especially helpful for broiling, poaching, and searing. You could, says Morgan, simply secure those thinner bits with a toothpick.
Salmon collars are a less common cut and more of a boutique item. You might not see them at your local fish counter, but keep your eye out for salmon collar on Japanese restaurant menus. Often broiled and served with a soy-miso sauce, collars are “super delicious,” says Morgan.
Get to Know the Different Types of Salmon
Of the six main types of salmon, five are Pacific salmon and come mainly from Alaska and the West Coast. The sixth, Atlantic salmon, is farmed in different parts of the world.
King (Chinook) Salmon
Origin: Alaska to California
Season: Summer and early fall
Color: Red or pinkish red
Flavor profile: Very rich and buttery
Texture: Velvety, flaky, meaty
Fat Content: Fatty
How to Enjoy It: Morgan’s favorite approach—and what she recommends for home cooks—is to grill king salmon on a cedar plank or plancha. “Salmon directly on the grill is tricky,” she warns. “The skin sticks no matter how good you are!”
Sockeye (Red) Salmon
Origin: Alaska to Oregon
Season: Summer and early fall
Color: Deep red
Flavor Profile: Almost as rich as king; wild and gamey
Texture: Firm
Fat Content: Fatty and oily
How to Enjoy It: Because it’s so oily, sockeye is more forgiving than some other varieties and can be cooked on the stovetop more easily, says Morgan. You can also broil it or grill it.
Coho (Silver) Salmon
Origin: Throughout the North Pacific Ocean and in most coastal streams and rivers from Alaska to central California; the Great Lakes and many other landlocked reservoirs throughout the US
Season Summer through late fall
Color: Reddish-orange; lighter than king or sockeye
Flavor Profile: Mild and delicate
Texture: Firm and flaky
Fat Content: Leaner than king or sockeye
How to Enjoy It: While you can easily grill coho on a cedar plank or plancha, Morgan thinks its mildness makes it a good match for chowders, risottos, and stir-fries.
Pink Salmon
Origin: Both sides of the North Pacific, from Alaska to Puget Sound in Washington State and from Russia to North Korea
Season Late summer to fall
Color: Pale pink
Flavor Profile: Mild
Texture: Soft and delicate with smaller flakes
Fat Content: Very lean
How to Enjoy It: Pink salmon is mostly available canned. In The Blue Foods Cookbook, Zimmern and Seaver recommend using it in fish cakes and pasta.
Chum (Dog) Salmon
Origin: Throughout the North Pacific Ocean, from the Arctic coast of Canada and throughout the northern coastal regions of North America and Asia
Season Late summer to spring
Color: Orange, pink, or red; usually paler than sockeye, coho, and king
Flavor Profile: Mild and balanced
Texture: Firm and meaty
Fat Content: Very lean
How to Enjoy It: Seaver calls chum, also known as keta, “a very balanced fish” with great flavor, texture, and a lean-to-fat ratio. All this makes it “culinarily versatile,” he says.
Atlantic Salmon
Origin: US coastal farms, mainly in Maine and Washington, as well as farms in Canada, Chile, Norway, Scotland, and Denmark
Season: Year-round
Color: Varies but usually reddish-orange or pink
Flavor Profile: Varies from rich to mild
Texture: Varies, but tends to be firm
Fat Content: Varies from fatty to lean
How to Enjoy It: Because it’s farmed in so many different places and in different ways, Atlantic salmon is a diverse category. Atlantic salmon from Norway, Scotland, or the Faroe Islands is heavy and rich, while those from Chile, British Columbia, and Maine tend to be much leaner, explains Seaver. As you become familiar with different options, experiment with various preparations. Many Atlantic salmon mimic king salmon, says Morgan, which makes them fairly forgiving and a good fit for grilling and pan-searing. Milder farmed salmon may benefit from a dry rub or marinade to bump up the flavor, she says.
What About Steelhead Trout?
Often grouped with salmon, steelhead trout—sometimes called steelhead salmon—are part of the salmonid family and share many traits. In The Blue Foods Cookbook, Zimmern and Seaver describe steelhead trout as having a more acute flavor and denser texture. Rainbow trout are related, but instead of migrating to the ocean like steelhead, they remain in freshwater their entire lives. According to NOAA, many steelhead species are endangered, so you will likely only see farmed options available.
How Should I Store Salmon?
If you go to the trouble to source great salmon, it’s essential to store it properly. In their book, Zimmern and Seaver insist, “It’s imperative to keep seafood as cold as possible, getting it from the cold of the store to the cold of your refrigerator ASAP.” While many recommend keeping fresh fish on ice, that’s not super convenient at home. Seaver’s more realistic advice is to store fish in its wrapper in the coolest part of the refrigerator, preferably away from the door and in a drawer to protect it from temperature swings each time the door is opened.
Stored properly, salmon will keep for several days; for longer-term storage, Morgan prefers to vacuum-seal and freeze it. Whether you froze the salmon yourself or purchased it frozen, never let it sit at room temperature to thaw. Instead, says Morgan, let it thaw in it’s packaging in cool water, which takes about an hour. Pop the defrosted salmon in the fridge until you’re ready to cook. Or else that it slowly over night, 8 to 24 hours, in the refrigerator.
Whether it’s wild or farmed, fresh or frozen, the best salmon is the one that fits your values, your budget, and your dinner plans. With a little knowledge—and a few thoughtful questions at the fish counter—you can feel good about what you’re buying and how you’re cooking it. The result is salmon that’s delicious, sustainable, and perfectly suited to your culinary needs.
